Excited to see the premiere of Wayne Lynch documentary next week in NYC! From the press release: Directed by Craig Griffin, Uncharted Waters is a feature length documentary about legendary Australian surfer Wayne Lynch. It traces his upbringing in the seaside town of Lorne on Victoria’s south western coast and his turbulent experiences as a ‘conscientious objector’ on the run from conscription and the Vietnam War. Ultimately, it is about an extremely gifted individual with an intense connection to the Southern Ocean, whose approach to surfing has been a spiritual journey often putting him at odds with the surfing subculture and society in general.
2013 Film Tour Dates
June 20, - The Broad Stage, Santa Monica, California (get tickets)
June 21, - La Paloma Theatre, Cardiff, California (get tickets)
June 27 - Village East Cinema, New York, New York (get tickets)
Last Thursday night a crowd of over 100 people came out for the launch of The Vertical, our special collaborative edition created with Patagonia to celebrate East Coast climbing and beyond. Patagonia’s Jeff Johnson shared his photographs from recent trips, while climbing enthusiasts downed Vita Coco and beer from 6 Point Brewery. Here are some party pix if you missed it. And be sure to visit Patagonia’s Meatpacking store (414 14th Street, NYC) to pick up your free copy of the The Vertical, or read it online here. Photos by Brian Uyeda.
When we’re in Montauk, we’re at Jimmy Goldberg’s—the best, and only ding repair in town—more often then we’re actually in the water. It was no surprise, then, that in the hours we spent watching our boards get bandaged back to life, that Jimmy—who’s life experience could be measured by how many ships he’s had to sink with the Coast Guard on his trail—became our default therapist. In this ongoing column, Jimmy waxes poetic on love, life, and surf etiquette while we furiously take notes.
What’s the best way to get psyched again when you keep eating shit in the water?
Try a new board, put a different fin on your board or try someone else’s board. Fresh foam is always exciting. To this day I ride this piece of shit board, but I have these other boards waiting in the wings for when the waves are good. Then I get super-duper excited. Surfing is the only sport I know of that you run to. You don’t run to a baseball game or to play tennis, but when there’s freaking waves I drop everything and get in my car. I never speed, but I don’t talk to anybody – don’t bother me…see ya.
Is chatting with your neighbors in the lineup a no-no?
I chat with some of my friends, but only my real close surfing friends. I’m pretty goddamned focused out there. Even when I’m talking to someone I’ve been surfing with for 30 or 40 years, I always have one eye on the horizon. If he stops to tell me how to make a million dollars and I see a wave coming, I’m going to take the wave before he gives me the answer.
Should women ever make the first move?
Yes. Absolutely. What’s the difference if a guy or a girl makes the first move? Nobody wants to get shut down, but opportunity only knocks once. What’s the old saying? “You throw enough shit on the wall and some of it’s going to stick.”
Collectively, the Malloy brothers—Chris, Keith and Dan—have traveled the world over countless times searching for great waves. Successful in the mainstream surf industry, they transitioned early on for a more holistic and purpose-driven sponsorship relationship, as Patagonia ambassadors. Also thriving movie-makers, their company Woodshed Films boasts celebrated titles, like 180° South, Come Hell or High Water, and Sliding Liberia. All their traveling may explain why we never tracked Chris down (call us!); but Keith and Dan tell us that these days, exploring locally (each live within seven miles of each other and their parents, near Ojai, CA), is where they’d rather be. We talked to the brothers about food, farming—which they grew up doing on a small scale—and filmmaking. (Photo: Jeff Lipsky)
Where are you, right now?
In Lompoc, it’s like an hour north of Santa Barbara. [My family and I] all live pretty much in a seven-mile radius of each other, but I’m actually moving a little farther away.
So, you’re the middle child among the boys: Did you ever have the “middle child” syndrome?
I’ll tell you what I have: Dan and Chris are very talkative, and I think I’m more reserved. I don’t know if that has to do with being the middle child or not. But those guys will talk your ear off for hours on end and make conversation with almost anyone they can. I’m pretty much the opposite. I don’t know if that has to do with being the middle child or not.
Chris and Dan were born, respectively, December 21st and December 22nd, so…I think they have more similar personalities. I was born in March. I never really believed in that stuff, but if I think about it, they definitely are much more alike and they look a little more similar in ways.
What did you think about California’s Prop 37 to label foods if they are genetically modified? Did you vote on that?
I did. I definitely think that food should be labeled. I mean, that’s just simple. Why not know what you’re eating? Unfortunately, it didn’t go through, but I think it would’ve been great; it made a lot of sense. Dan and Grace were really fighting hard on that one, and I agreed with them 100 percent.
We created a special edition with Patagonia, The Vertical, celebrating their rich climbing history. Join us this Thursday, May 2, in NYC for the launch of the issue! Jeff Johnson – a climber, surfer, filmmaker and photographer – who is one of several athletes featured in the magazine, will be there to show images from his recent trips. This event is FREE. We’ll be serving snacks & beer!
Read The Vertical online HERE.
INDOEK is a bi-coastal, surf-centric blog celebrating independent waveriding culture mixed with all things creative and inspiring. They have been supporters of The Usual since Issue No. 1 so we’re stoked to spread the word about their Kickstarter appeal. We’ll let them tell you more about it in the video they put together below:
We love the new microsite they created about Owen Wright where, in this anatomical study of his physique, they highlight his enormous presence compared to his pro surfing peers as well as other professional athletes.
How did a kid from the Upper West Side get involved in surfing?
I was traveling around and getting to be in places where there’s beautiful water and waves. Not taking advantage of that seemed like a shame. That coupled with the fact that my older son is ocean-obsessed. He’s 9 years old and about to do his first surf competition. So if I wanted to spend anytime with him then I had to learn how to surf.
So your son basically taught you how to surf?
Well, I don’t want that to get back to him. There’s all kinds of egos involved. But I would say he’s more of the inspiration. I can still handle him in the line-up. Let the record state – I can still hold my own against him in a heat. That will not last that much longer.
When did you start going out to Montauk and why?
It was kind of from coming to Malibu that we ended up in Montauk. We spend our summers in Malibu in Point Dune and there are nature reserves. You would never know you’re in a city next to 11 million people. Then we’d come back to New York in September and the kids would be in school after surfing all summer, and we’d kind of be in culture shock. The only thing that we found that was comprable to Point Dune was Montauk.
If you’re a fan from out of town and want to purchase a copy, please paypal email@example.com with your name and mailing address. ($5 USD Domestic, $10 USD International to cover shipping.)
ABOUT THE ISSUE:
The East Coast has been through a lot lately. Hurricane Sandy devastated much of the New York and New Jersey coastline, leaving us — and the amazing, dedicated, and brave many — picking up the pieces of the areas we know, love, and surf in. That’s why we felt it was more important than ever to bring you Issue 4 of The Usual, our “Bowery and Beyond” edition, to highlight our humble, strong and vibrant surf scene. After the storm, watching friends, neighbors, and strangers rally to rebuild, we’re more proud than ever to call New York home. And even though the debate lives on over whether New Jersey or Rockaway breeds gnarlier surfers, whether Long Beach has the best waves, or if Montauk has the cutest boys and makes the best lobster rolls; at the end of the day, we’re all one united East Coast surf community.
On the following pages, we start on the Bowery, where our favorite company Patagonia will take over the old CBGB gallery to open their first East Coast surf store in early 2013. Just like CBGB’s nurtured New York’s alternative music culture, Patagonia’s shop will be a hub for surfers— the misfits of the global brand. We bring you Mike D, one third of the legendary Beastie Boys, who reached iconic Empire State status not long after playing CBGB’s for the first time; and photographer Roberta Bayley who captured many a rock star at the iconic venue. She shares her day at Coney Island with Joey Ramone, showing us his sporty side. We interview the Malloy Brothers, who epitomize Patagonia’s spirit and commitment to the environment, and who all agree their wives make better farmers than the three of them combined. We ask Kim Diggs, an Outer Banks, NC surf pro, about her first time in the Big Apple; and Balaram Stack, who at last year’s QuikPro in Long Beach showed the world (what we knew all along) that the Atlantic breeds dedicated, and slightly crazier groms. We check out what it looks like—both in and out of the water—to surf in New York from photographer Zak Bush, and writer Malcolm Johnson’s perspectives. Dan Ross, also a Patagonia ambassador, talks about saving our oceans, one plastic bottle at a time.
We hope you enjoy reading about the individuals on the Bowery and beyond as much as we enjoyed talking to them. And if not, at least you’ll have 16 pages of kindling for your fireplace this winter.